Pantelleria: gli alberi del vino che dialogano con il vento

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Pantelleria: gli alberi del vino che dialogano con il vento

Una delle più forte emozioni provate nella mia vita di giornalista è legata in maniera indissolubile a Pantelleria: per la sua stupefacente bellezza e per l’indole della sua gente, che ha imparato a dialogare con il sole ed il vento per proteggere e valorizzare i prodigi donati dalla natura. Gente che ha saputo dipingere di mille tonalità di verde la scura roccia lavica scaturita dal profondo di un mare blu intenso. Il verde della vite, dell’ulivo, dei capperi, delle erbe, degli orti e dei giardini.

Tutto è iniziato parecchi anni or sono, nei giorni precedenti il Natale. Proprio dall’isola, situata nel centro del Mediterraneo, mi giunse un pacco inatteso. Lo aprii con comprensibile curiosità non avendo la minima idea di cosa potesse contenere. Lo stupore fu grande: nella confezione c’erano tre grappoli di uva essiccata e dei deliziosi dolcetti tipici. Poche le parole vergate sul biglietto di auguri: “Alle fonti del Khamma”. La firma era di Salvatore Murana, un istrionico folletto pantesco. Rammentai immediatamente, allora, che un po’ di tempo prima nel corso di una degustazione pubblica avevo magnificato la ragguardevole identità del suo vino passito, di cui mi piaceva molto anche il nome. “Khamma”: nella musicalità della parola c’era qualcosa di magico.

In effetti, è stata la chiave che mi ha permesso di entrare in un mondo particolare: quello del Moscato d’Alessandria, chiamato Zibibbo – da zabib, “uva passa” – dagli arabi. È probabile che anticamente i grappoli venissero impiegati non per la vinificazione ma per preparare un cibo energetico per i marinai. Via via, ho preso confidenza con nuovi toponimi quali Gadir, Martingana, Mueggen ed altri ancora, in grado, ciascuno, di destare interessanti sensazioni.
Grotte, sentieri, scorci panoramici, terrazze sostenute dai muri a secco, la “montagna”. E poi i caratteristici dammusi, le antiche abitazioni locali. Ancora: le viti, ovviamente. Però con il sistema “ad alberello”, per resistere meglio all’imperversare dello scirocco e del maestrale, come avviene anche per gli ulivi. Tale accorgimento pratico, dettato dalla saggezza contadina, nel 2014 è stato dichiarato Patrimonio Immateriale dell’Umanità dall’UNESCO. I grappoli vengono vendemmiati a più riprese ed esposti al sole per l’appassimento, secondo un procedimento che richiede molta attenzione, la stessa necessaria pure nella trasformazione. Il risultato è semplicemente straordinario, un capolavoro enoico con rarissimi riscontri altrove. Lo Zibibbo, mai stucchevole, fiorisce in bocca con una dolce grazia che sa di albicocca, fiori d’arancio, datteri, fichi secchi, tabacco biondo e di ulteriori sentori che si sprigionano con l’evoluzione dell’affinamento. Dal giallo oro all’ambra il colore.

A Pantelleria il bello e il buono procedono con la complicità di una atmosfera piuttosto informale. Al fascino del paesaggio, così, si può associare la qualità della cucina. Vale a dire: dentici, cernie e ricciole e ortaggi di primissima qualità da impreziosire con i minuscoli capperi, il profumatissimo origano e lo squisito olio extravergine di oliva, ricavato dalla cultivar biancolilla. La soave delicatezza delle sue note fruttate rasenta la poesia.

Leggi Articolo su Repubblica: https://www.repubblica.it/dossier/sapori/guide-espresso/2020/05/19/news/pantelleria_gli_alberi_del_vino_che_dialogano_con_il_vento-257087174/

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